Take someone you love to the Camera degli Sposi

There may be more important works of art, like the David or the Last Supper or the Sistine Chapel, but for sheer charm there's nothing like these 15th-century frescoes by Mantegna. You find them not in a mobbed museum but in a quiet jewel box, a small chamber in the ducal palace of Mantua. The brightly colored paintings literally shimmer with inlaid gold and lapis. The paintings depict nobility, courtiers, children, dwarves, horses, dogs--all watched over not by a stern God but by an assortment

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